NV Mallets & Coemy Brut Tradition Champagne 750 ml

We have known Laurent for years. He’s one of those indispensable connections that you gotta have in this business: He’ll meet you at any hour anywhere in Paris, he knows Champagne like he was raised there (he wasn’t), he knows growers, winemakers, and exporters like he grew up with them (he didn’t)—and most importantly, he spots great buys that others miss. 

So when we sent him a WhatsApp message (or did we “WhatsApp” him?) on our last trip to Paris, he summoned us to a café on Rue Montorgueil, the thrumming hub culinaire near église St. Eustache. When we joined him at his table, the server immediately materialized with a couple of coupes. Laurent poured.

After catching up a bit, he turned his attention to the wine. "This one," he said, clinking his Mont Blanc on the Mallets & Coemy bottle. “I love it, especially for the prix. Has it ever been to the USA? I believe not.” 

The wine was fabulous. Showing a pale golden core, the aromas are driven by white peach, ginger, and lemon preserves. The palate is sharp, with beautiful cut, a juicy midpalate, and cleansing acidity that carries a long, generous finish. A fresh, vibrant, and memorable Champagne from start to finish. 

"The house goes back to 1764," Laurent explained as we drank and dug into the fresh plate of oysters. "François Dubois in Faverolles-et-Coëmy. They never pushed for much recognition, never chased trends. They just make excellent Champagne. Every year.”

We sat with Laurent, draining the bottle, relishing the afternoon bustle of Rue Montorgueil. He'd found us something we would not have found otherwise, and that—in addition to his knowing every maitre’d in the Michelin Guide—is why we love the man. We hope you enjoy this discovery as much as we did.