2022 Marietta Cellars Zinfandel Roman Estate Grown North Coast 750 ml

Marietta’s classy Zin reminds us of great wines of the 1970s and 80s or modern masters like Frog’s Leap and Sandland: With a brambly personality and ripe fruit welded to peppery spice and a bright finish,it’s got much in common with its fancy peers—except that it’s priced like it’s from decades ago, especially considering that all the estate-grown grapes were farmed organically. 

Founded in 1978 by Chris Bilbro, now in the hands of his sons, Jake and Scot, Marietta has focused on quality at reasonable pricing from the very beginning. They started with their spectacular Old Vine Red, a “mixed blacks” blend that quickly became a company calling card.

Today the winery owns and farms 400 acres of their own vines organically, having acquired Limerick Lane Winery and McDowell Valley Vineyards in 2011 and 2012, respectively. They have a year-round team of dedicated vineyard and winery workers, most of whom have worked for them for years, and today’s wine is an homage to one of them: cellarmaster Román Cisneros, who has worked at Marietta for well over three decades.

The 2022 underwent a cool fermentation—ideal for preserving delicate aromas—and then spent a full year in older barrels before bottling. Now it shows off a generous nose of blackberry compote, wild blueberry, cracked black pepper, and fresh thyme, with subtle flickers of vanilla and cedar from poised oak. On the palate, it’s plush and expansive, brimming with ripe, brambly fruit, plum skin, and baking spice, yet anchored by a refreshing streak of acidity and a light tannic grip.

There’s a rustic elegance here—it’s juicy and bold, but with a finesse and structure that elevates the experience. We’re giant fans.