Ross Cobb is one of the greatest winemakers on the Sonoma Coast, and to get a sense of his status, just look at the wineries that have recruited him over the years: Burt Williams and Bob Cabral of Williams-Selyem nabbed him in 1998. Flowers hired him away in 2000, eventually making him head winemaker. Then David Hirsch called, asking to do the same, in 2009.

Needless to say, we order Ross’ wines whenever we see them on wine lists—and though it’s one of his rarest bottlings, we’ve spotted the Vonarburg Riesling at Michelin-starred destinations like Atomix in New York City and SingleThread in California.

Vonarburg is a privileged site in the Deep End of Mendocino’s Anderson Valley, next to owner Norm Kobler’s family home—and the Kobler name means a lot in the North Coast. His family founded the landmark Lazy Creek Winery in the early 1970s, and made wines of such distinction that they helped draw legendary French Champagne house Louis Roederer to the area. Now Vonarburg Vineyard sits just on the other side of a fence from Roederer Estate.

Cobb picked the grapes at perfect ripeness, then fermented them in a mixture of stainless steel and large barrels before bottling the following spring. The result, coiled on release, has blossomed beautifully in the bottle. The nose today is captivating: Aromas of lime zest, green apples, and honeysuckle are layered with jasmine, crushed slate, and a bare whisper of petrol. The palate is just as compelling and delicious, with flavors of Meyer lemon, pear, quince, and a core of saline minerality accented by chamomile and a hint of beeswax.

We have a tiny allocation—fewer than 200 cases were produced, and most sold to Cobb’s mailing list and select restaurants on release. Don’t delay.