2020 Pietradolce Rampante Etna Rosso Sicily 750 ml

From pre-phylloxera vines 80–90 years old, grown on the north slope of Etna in rocky volcanic ash, the 2020 Pietradolce Rampante Etna Rosso should cost a mint—which is why it stands as one of the world’s great values. We can’t imagine any lover of Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo not falling head over heels for it. 

Sitting on Europe’s most active volcano has its perks. Years of eruptions and lava flows have shaped the mountainside, painting streaks of stony, sandy loam. Here, the high altitudes and rich soils nurture thick-skinned Nerello grapes that harbor ample tannins and acidity. These features come together perfectly in the Rampante contrada (district), producing sturdy wines that don’t have the heaviness you’ll find in some other Italian reds.

A deep respect for these sun-drenched slopes flows through everything Pietradolce does. They tend every ancient vine by hand and strive for minimal human intervention. In short, they trust the land to work its magic, and the land always delivers. By the time the fruit emerges from vines planted in black volcanic rock, it’s imbued with boundless potential, which gets unlocked by a 14-month rest in 500-liter oak casks. 

Pietradolce’s vines have seen more history than most humans. After the late-1800s phylloxera outbreak that decimated vineyards throughout Europe, only small pockets of ungrafted survivors like these remained. Perched as high as 2,800 feet, they brave battering winds, soil with low water-retention, and large day-night temperature swings throughout the year. They’re some of the continent’s rarest vines, and the grapes they produce display outstanding complexity that you don’t see in their younger counterparts.