Baby Back Ribs with Mustard-Bourbon Mop

In a bowl, stir together the paprika, dry mustard, salt and 1/2 tsp. of the pepper. Using your fingers, pat the rub mixture evenly over the ribs, rubbing it in well. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before grilling.

In a bowl, whisk together the bourbon, prepared mustard, vinegar, brown sugar, oil, Worcestershire sauce, hot-pepper sauce and the remaining 1/2 tsp. pepper until the sugar dissolves. Set the mop aside.

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for indirect grilling over medium-low heat. Oil the grill rack.

For a charcoal grill: Place a drip pan half full of water in the center of the fire bed. Sprinkle wood chips on the coals. Place the ribs, meat side up, on the grill rack over the drip pan. Cover the grill and cook, turning the ribs over after 30 minutes. Continue to cook, basting the ribs with the mop every 15 to 20 minutes, turning the ribs 2 or 3 times more, and adding more wood chips, more coals and more water to the drip pan as needed, until the meat is tender and has started to pull away and expose the ends of the bones, 1 3/4 to 2 hours more.

For a gas grill: Place a shallow pan half full of water at the edge of the grill rack. Add wood chips to the grill in a smoker box or perforated foil packet. Place the ribs, meat side up, on the grill rack away from the heat elements. Cover the grill and cook, turning the ribs over after 30 minutes. Continue to cook, basting the ribs with the mop every 15 to 20 minutes, turning the ribs 2 or 3 times more, and adding more wood chips and more water to the pan as needed, until the meat is tender and has started to pull away to expose the ends of the bones, 1 3/4 to 2 hours more.

Let the ribs rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Cut the slabs into 2- or 3-rib portions and serve warm.

Serves 4 to 6.

Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Essentials of Grilling, by Denis Kelly, Melanie Barnard, Barbara Grunes, Michael McLaughlin & Bob & Coleen Simmons (Oxmoor House, 2006).